Real Property Reports are legal documents prepared by registered Alberta Land Surveyors. A Real Property Report (RPR) is a legal graphic representation of a piece of property and the improvements upon it. In preparing a Real Property Report, an Alberta Land Surveyor locates the legal boundaries of a property and then measures the locations of the buildings or other improvements relative to the boundaries. The boundaries and improvements are then plotted on a document. The document also identifies easements, utility right of way, and other legal features that may affect the property.
The time to arrange an RPR is as soon as a property is listed for sale. Having a prepared Report is an advantage for a seller and will make a real estate transaction easier and likely faster. If a Real Property Report is ordered near the closing date for a sale, there can be delays.Often major issues are identified through the Real Property Report process. Garages have been built on property lines, garages have been built over gas lines, fences have been located on neighboring property, or a neighbor's fence is built on the subject property, and even houses have been improperly located.
More information about Real Property Reports, easements, fences, and other land and real estate related issues are available at www.alsa.ab.ca.
Welcome to Vulcan
Friday, December 4, 2009
Water Meter Replacement
The Town of Vulcan is undertaking a water meter replacement program.
All installations will be conducted by the Town's contractor, Neptune Technology Group (Canada) Ltd. between November 16, 2009 and December 31, 2009.
Should you have any questions or concerns regarding the program, please contact the Town Office at 403-485-2417.
All installations will be conducted by the Town's contractor, Neptune Technology Group (Canada) Ltd. between November 16, 2009 and December 31, 2009.
Should you have any questions or concerns regarding the program, please contact the Town Office at 403-485-2417.
Trek Station Beats 23,000 Mark
This is a clip from the Vulcan Advocate, Wednesday, November 25, 2009 edition:
More than 23,000 visitors have now been through the doors of the Trek Station this year.
The 23,000 mark was broken two weekends ago, according to Dayna Dickens, Vulcan's tourism co-oridinator.
The Trek Station has seen 38 per cent more vistors at the same time this year than in 2008, said Dickens.
Compared to the 2006 year-end visitor stats, there has been a whopping 115 per cent increase in visitors so far this year.
For more information on the Vulcan Advocate, visit www.vulcanadvocate.com
More than 23,000 visitors have now been through the doors of the Trek Station this year.
The 23,000 mark was broken two weekends ago, according to Dayna Dickens, Vulcan's tourism co-oridinator.
The Trek Station has seen 38 per cent more vistors at the same time this year than in 2008, said Dickens.
Compared to the 2006 year-end visitor stats, there has been a whopping 115 per cent increase in visitors so far this year.
For more information on the Vulcan Advocate, visit www.vulcanadvocate.com
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Congratulations on your new home!
A client bought a new home and the broker wanted to send flowers for the occasion. They arrived at the home and the owner read the card; it said "Rest in Peace". The owner was angry and called the florist to complain. After he had told the florist of the obvious mistake and how angry he was, the florist said. "Sir, I'm really sorry for the mistake, but rather than getting angry you should imagine this: somewhere there is a funeral taking place today, and they have flowers with a note saying, "Congratulations on your new home".
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Conserve water in the bathroom
Water Conservation
Low-Flow FixturesCut down on the amount of water used in your bathroom by switching to a low-flow, aerating shower head and faucets. These fixtures can reduce your home's water consumption by as much as 50 percent. Low-flow shower heads will use just 1.2 gallons of water per minute as opposed to the 2.5 gallon average, but the aerating feature makes the water flow seem just as strong.Dual-flush ToiletsDual-flush toilets allow users to select the amount of water flushed to correspond to the task at hand. There are two options; for solid waste there is a handle for a full 1.6 gallon flush, and for liquid you can choose a 0.8-1.1 gallon flush. You could save your family as much as 1,500 gallons a year with a dual-flush toilet - that's 60 percent to 80 percent less when compared with high volume toilets.
Low-Flow FixturesCut down on the amount of water used in your bathroom by switching to a low-flow, aerating shower head and faucets. These fixtures can reduce your home's water consumption by as much as 50 percent. Low-flow shower heads will use just 1.2 gallons of water per minute as opposed to the 2.5 gallon average, but the aerating feature makes the water flow seem just as strong.Dual-flush ToiletsDual-flush toilets allow users to select the amount of water flushed to correspond to the task at hand. There are two options; for solid waste there is a handle for a full 1.6 gallon flush, and for liquid you can choose a 0.8-1.1 gallon flush. You could save your family as much as 1,500 gallons a year with a dual-flush toilet - that's 60 percent to 80 percent less when compared with high volume toilets.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Women decide faster than men - survey
When it comes to the home-buying decision, women make up their minds quicker than men, according to a survey by Coldwell Banker Real Estate. When asked how long it took before they knew their home was "right" for them, almost 70% of women had made up their mind the day they walked into the house, versus 62% of men. Conversely, significantly more men needed two or more visits.
Another highlight from the survery: Women would rather live closer to their extended family than their jobs. 50% of women find it more important to be closer to their extended family (those that do not live in their household) than to their job, compared to only 37% of men.
Just something to think about...
Another highlight from the survery: Women would rather live closer to their extended family than their jobs. 50% of women find it more important to be closer to their extended family (those that do not live in their household) than to their job, compared to only 37% of men.
Just something to think about...
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
While changing the clocks back...
This article is thanks to Pillar to Post:
Summer Vacation is over and now it's time to tend to the tasks that prepare us for the fall. Here are 5 tips to get you started.
Be sure to replace your furnace and fridge filters.For heating and cooling systems to operate properly the filters need to be changed frequently. If you have an automatic ice maker and cold-water dispenser, now is the time to replace the filter in your refrigerator to ensure fresh tasting ice and water.
Keep your washer working at it's best and smelling fresh.Odor-causing residues and mould and mildew stains have the potential to accumulate anywhere moisture is present - including your washing machine. To reduce this build up use a washer cleaning kit every time the seasons change.
Run all gas-powered lawn equipment outside until the fuel tank is empty.This will ensure that your lawn mower is not a fire hazard if you store it in the garage over the winter.
Change batteries in fire detectors and review your fire escape plan.Batteries weaken with age and must be checked regularly, while smoke alarms become less sensitive over time and should be changed every ten years.
Have a certified chimney sweep inspect and clean the flues and check your fireplace damper.Also remember to remove bird nests from chimney flues and outdoor electrical fixtures. A chimney with soot and creosol build-up or birds' nests can be a fire hazard.
Summer Vacation is over and now it's time to tend to the tasks that prepare us for the fall. Here are 5 tips to get you started.
Be sure to replace your furnace and fridge filters.For heating and cooling systems to operate properly the filters need to be changed frequently. If you have an automatic ice maker and cold-water dispenser, now is the time to replace the filter in your refrigerator to ensure fresh tasting ice and water.
Keep your washer working at it's best and smelling fresh.Odor-causing residues and mould and mildew stains have the potential to accumulate anywhere moisture is present - including your washing machine. To reduce this build up use a washer cleaning kit every time the seasons change.
Run all gas-powered lawn equipment outside until the fuel tank is empty.This will ensure that your lawn mower is not a fire hazard if you store it in the garage over the winter.
Change batteries in fire detectors and review your fire escape plan.Batteries weaken with age and must be checked regularly, while smoke alarms become less sensitive over time and should be changed every ten years.
Have a certified chimney sweep inspect and clean the flues and check your fireplace damper.Also remember to remove bird nests from chimney flues and outdoor electrical fixtures. A chimney with soot and creosol build-up or birds' nests can be a fire hazard.
Monday, September 28, 2009
Safety in Your Apartment
This is a clip from CMHC that I thought was interesting and applicable:
Improving Your Security and Safety
Most apartment and condominium buildings are secure and safe. However, you should be aware of, and periodically review, the security and safety of your apartment and apartment building.
In rental buildings, the building owner and management are responsible for security. In condominiums, suite security is typically an owner concern and the condominium corporation is responsible for common areas — including exterior doors and windows and corridor doors to individual apartments. Your best defence is to know about and use the security and safety features in your building and surrounding spaces. Be alert and prevent dangerous situations before they occur.
This About Your Apartment highlights the types of security and safety features you may have in your building and how to use them effectively. It deals with personal security; discouraging theft and trespassing; preventing falls from windows and balconies and combustion safety.
Whether you own or rent your apartment, you can make it more safe and secure for you and your family. If, after reading this About Your Apartment, you realize that your apartment or building has security or safety issues, discuss them with your building management or condominium corporation. Remember, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Security: How Secure is Your Apartment?
Various methods are used to keep apartments and apartment buildings secure from trespassing, theft and vandalism. Security devices, such as deadbolt locks on doors, window locks, controlled-access entrances and well-lit common spaces all contribute to a secure building. Familiarize yourself with your building and apartment’s security measures. The following sections discuss typical apartment building security features.
Apartment-Corridor Doors
Your apartment door should have a good deadbolt lock. One feature to look for is lock throw — the length the locking bolt protrudes from the door into the surrounding door frame when placed in the full lock position. Test this by locking the door while it is open — a good deadbolt lock protrudes 35 mm (1 1⁄2 in.) or more when fully extended. A strong deadbolt lock also has a jimmy-proof strike plate (the part of the lock assembly mounted in the door frame to receive the bolt). The strike plate should be secured to the door framing by screws at least 50–75 mm (2–3 in.) long. This ensures the strike plate is fastened to the structure of the wall and not just the door frame.
Locks only work if you use them. Remember to lock your apartment even when you step out for a moment to check the mail. In fact, it is a good safety habit to keep the door locked at all times — even while you are in the apartment. Chain-type locks, which are easy to break, offer very little resistance to forced entry.
Install a door viewer (peephole) in your entrance door, if you do not already have one. If you have children, consider installing a peephole at their level.
Balcony Doors
Intrusion is not just a ground floor or corridor door threat. Always lock balcony doors when you are away from home. Equip balcony doors with the same type of deadbolt locks recommended for corridor doors. There is special hardware to secure sliding balcony doors but a simple, effective, inexpensive solution is a sturdy piece of wood in the door’s track to prevent the sliding door from opening. Make sure the sliding part of the door can’t be lifted from its track.
Items on the balcony are also vulnerable to theft. If thieves see valuables on a balcony — such as bicycles — they will climb a ladder to steal them. Conceal and secure items you cannot store inside. Lock bicycles.
Windows
Make sure all windows close fully, that the locking hardware is in good condition and that it is easy to lock the window when you shut it. Ensure that a thief cannot lift a horizontal window out of its track. Even on upper floors, a thief can get into your apartment through an open window overlooking a balcony.
Storage Room
If you have a separate locker or storage room, store items out of reach and up off the floor. Cover them. Often, locker walls are chain-link fencing or wood slats. This means anyone can see what is in your locker and that your belongings are exposed to spills or floods. Also, ensure that door hinges and screws of the locking system are covered when the access door is locked. This will prevent a thief from getting into the locker by unscrewing the hasp or hinges.
Building Entry System
The front door entry system of most apartment buildings allows a resident to remotely let guests into the building. These systems are only effective if the front door locking system functions and intruders cannot take advantage of an open door to enter the building.
When you activate the front door entry system, make sure you know who is asking to come in and remind them to close the door behind them. If you have young children or children visit often, ensure they know how to correctly operate the remote entry system. Would-be intruders will sometimes buzz different apartments until someone lets them in. Always be sure that you know the person before you let them into the apartment building. If you are unsure, notify the building management of the entry request so they can handle it.
Elevator Security
Look and see who is in the elevator before entering. If you feel uncomfortable, do not enter the elevator, wait for the next one.
Stand beside the control panel in the elevator and know how to use the emergency alarm button.
If a suspicious person enters the elevator, leave before the door closes.
Parking Garage Security
If possible, use the parking garage during periods of high use when others are around.
Watch for suspicious persons as you enter the parking garage. Drive back out if you are concerned.
Park near exit doors or the elevator foyer, if possible.
Park in well-lit areas.
Walk in the centre of the garage.
Ask building management to install security cameras and alarm stations if the garage has a history of theft or security problems.
Building Security
Tell your building management if you have problems with closing or locking windows and doors. Report burned-out and broken lights in common areas, such as corridors, stairwells, garbage rooms, laundry areas, parking garages and outdoor areas. If your building is equipped with security cameras or alarm stations, make sure you know where they are and how to use them in emergencies. Report any suspicious or unfamiliar people loitering inside or outside the building to the building management.
Neighbourhood Security
The safety of your neighbourhood has an effect on your building’s security. To find out if your building and neighbourhood are safe, contact your local police department at its non-emergency number. Many police departments have web sites with information about criminal incidents. Police departments will review your building’s security. Get involved with a neighbourhood watch-type program or start one yourself — it is good protection and helps builds a sense of community. Sometimes, if conditions warrant, it may be necessary to hire a security company.
Security Responsibility
The landlord or the condominium corporation (often through a property manager) is usually responsible for building security. Typically this involves:
ensuring that security systems meet or exceed security requirements for apartment buildings, such as deadbolt locks on doors, good lighting and window locks;
ensuring that security systems provide reasonable protection for all residents — in their apartments and in common areas, such as parking garages and elevators;
conducting regular inspections to spot and fix security problems, such as broken locks or burned-out exterior lights, and asking residents to submit security concerns or suggestions as part of continuing maintenance;
dealing with complaints about dangerous situations, suspicious activities or broken security items.
Personal Security
Personal security is largely a matter of continuing awareness of your surroundings, and reducing risks. As you approach your building, if something does not “feel” right, do not enter; go to another entrance or exit or get help from the building management or the police. If possible, schedule your arrivals and departures with other residents. Park your car in well-lit areas as close as possible to building entrances.
Do not leave messages on your phone saying you are away or on vacation. Tell a trustworthy neighbour when you plan to be away and ask the neighbour to pick up mail and flyers. Cancel newspaper subscriptions and consider using lights (energy efficient compact fluorescents are best as they consume the least electricity) and a radio on timers to make it look, and sound, as if someone is at home. Do not put a note on your door saying you are away. Cover the window in your mailbox (if there is one) to avoid drawing attention to an accumulation of mail.
Police, insurance companies and private security professionals can advise you or your landlord on ways to make your apartment building more secure.
You can do your part to keep the apartment building secure:
Report any security concerns or problems to the building manager or landlord.
Do not disable security features. Safety latches on windows keep intruders out — and children in.
Do not prop exit doors open. These doors are designed to stay closed for security and fire safety.
Do not hold the door for a stranger to enter. Be wary of strangers who linger around the front door and dash to hold the door open after it has been unlocked.
Do not give your apartment keys or pass cards to strangers or tell strangers the access codes to the building.
Tell building management and security personnel when you are planning to have work done on your apartment. Do not let anyone in to work in your apartment unless you, the landlord or the building manager has previously arranged for the work. Be wary of “security personnel” who knock unannounced.
If you live near the ground and you like to open your windows, make sure the windows do not open wide enough to let someone through. Use a window safety device (see “Preventing Falls from Windows and Balconies.”) You can also restrict a window opening with a removable nail or by placing a shortened broomstick in the track. Modifying the window itself, however, may void its warranty.
If you or a family member has a disability, ensure that security features, such as locks on windows and doors, peepholes and security cameras, accommodate your needs.
How Safe is Your Apartment?
Safe and secure living is more than just locks and security features. Fire, falls and everyday household items and activities can affect your safety. Be aware and prepared and you can significantly reduce the safety risks in both your apartment and your building.
Preventing Falls from Windows and Balconies
Falls are one of the leading causes of injury and death among children. Children are often tempted to climb up to apartment windows and balcony guardrails to get a better view. In such instances, a fall can happen in a matter of seconds. Never leave children unattended on a balcony or near an open window.
Many municipalities require apartment windows to have mechanical safety devices to prevent them from opening more than 10 cm (4 in.). These safety devices protect children. If you remove or disable them, you can endanger the life of a child who lives with you or visits your apartment. Make sure that your windows have mechanical safety devices and that they work properly. Window screens are not strong enough to prevent falls by even the smallest child.
Preventing Falls Checklist
Ensure all windows more than 2 m (6 ft.) above the ground have safety devices.
Make sure everyone in your apartment (including children) knows that window screens cannot prevent a fall.
Keep cribs, beds, chairs and any furniture a child can climb away from all windows.
Lock doors to balconies with a childproof lock.
Keep chairs and anything else a child can climb away from balcony railings.
Do not store items children can move and climb on balconies.
Always supervise a child on a balcony. Never leave a child unattended on a balcony — even for a moment.
Preventing Falls Elsewhere:
Windows and balconies are not the only fall hazards in an apartment building. Poorly lit stairwells, slippery or uneven entry steps, slippery lobby floors, clutter on apartment floors and wet bathroom floors are also falling hazards, especially for older people. To prevent falls in your apartment:
Keep your floors free of clutter and clean up spills immediately.
Don’t use throw rugs or scatter rugs on hard surfaces. If you have them, use a slip-resistant underlay. Use night lights in hallways, particularly between the bedroom and bathroom.
In the bathroom, use non-slip mats in and beside the tub and, if needed, install grab bars and use a bath stool or bench.
Use a proper stepstool or short ladder to reach upper cabinets, change light bulbs and so on. The stepstool should have a handle and rubber-tipped feet to prevent slipping.
Store heavy items on lower shelves and often-used items within easy arm’s reach to reduce the need to use a stepstool.
Repair damaged floor surfaces (bent vinyl tile, torn or wrinkled carpet) to prevent tripping.
In the common areas of your apartment building, be aware of:
floor coverings that become slippery when wet, such as marble floors in lobbies;
poorly lit stairwells and entrances. Stairs and entranceways should be well lit from above with a light switch at the top and bottom of the steps or an automatic switch;
steep, winding, slippery or non-uniform steps in entrances and stairwells. The steps should have a consistent rise and tread depth with clearly defined edges;
missing or loose handrails on stairs. All stairs should have a securely attached handrail in good repair — preferably one on each side of the stairway;
tripping hazards, such as cracks in sidewalks, damaged floor tiles or worn spots in hallway carpets;
ice, snow and debris at entrances and on sidewalks.
If you notice hazards or unsafe conditions in or around your building, tell your building manager or landlord.
Combustion Safety
Some apartments have natural-gas furnaces, hot water tanks and fireplaces. Some even have wood-burning appliances. These appliances burn fuel to produce heat. The burning produces dangerous gases that must be vented outdoors — usually through a chimney or a side wall vent that looks like a plastic pipe or metal duct. If the combustion gases are not vented properly, it creates a serious health hazard in your apartment.
To prevent problems from fuel-fired appliances in your unit:
ensure the appliances and venting systems are serviced annually;
never place items on or around fuel-fired appliances if the items could disrupt air flow to or around the appliance;
never block outdoor air ducts that provide combustion air to the appliances;
operate the exhaust hood over a gas-fired stove range when you cook;
never fully or partially obstruct chimneys or vents on the outside walls of your apartment;
report any problems with your appliances to the building management (if you rent) or to a contractor (if you own the condominium and the equipment);
report buildups of ice, bird nests or other blockages on outside vents.
Carbon Monoxide
Carbon monoxide (CO) is an odourless, tasteless, colourless, toxic gas produced by the incomplete combustion of fossil fuels. CO can escape into the living space of your apartment from a damaged or improperly functioning gas-fired furnace, fireplace or any other combustion appliance. If you live above or beside a parking garage, CO may be able to enter your apartment. Install a CO detector in your apartment if you have any combustion appliances in your unit or live above or beside a parking garage. Small amounts of CO may be produced by gas ranges — ensure that you operate the rangehood or open a window when the stove is in use.
Improving Your Security and Safety
Most apartment and condominium buildings are secure and safe. However, you should be aware of, and periodically review, the security and safety of your apartment and apartment building.
In rental buildings, the building owner and management are responsible for security. In condominiums, suite security is typically an owner concern and the condominium corporation is responsible for common areas — including exterior doors and windows and corridor doors to individual apartments. Your best defence is to know about and use the security and safety features in your building and surrounding spaces. Be alert and prevent dangerous situations before they occur.
This About Your Apartment highlights the types of security and safety features you may have in your building and how to use them effectively. It deals with personal security; discouraging theft and trespassing; preventing falls from windows and balconies and combustion safety.
Whether you own or rent your apartment, you can make it more safe and secure for you and your family. If, after reading this About Your Apartment, you realize that your apartment or building has security or safety issues, discuss them with your building management or condominium corporation. Remember, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Security: How Secure is Your Apartment?
Various methods are used to keep apartments and apartment buildings secure from trespassing, theft and vandalism. Security devices, such as deadbolt locks on doors, window locks, controlled-access entrances and well-lit common spaces all contribute to a secure building. Familiarize yourself with your building and apartment’s security measures. The following sections discuss typical apartment building security features.
Apartment-Corridor Doors
Your apartment door should have a good deadbolt lock. One feature to look for is lock throw — the length the locking bolt protrudes from the door into the surrounding door frame when placed in the full lock position. Test this by locking the door while it is open — a good deadbolt lock protrudes 35 mm (1 1⁄2 in.) or more when fully extended. A strong deadbolt lock also has a jimmy-proof strike plate (the part of the lock assembly mounted in the door frame to receive the bolt). The strike plate should be secured to the door framing by screws at least 50–75 mm (2–3 in.) long. This ensures the strike plate is fastened to the structure of the wall and not just the door frame.
Locks only work if you use them. Remember to lock your apartment even when you step out for a moment to check the mail. In fact, it is a good safety habit to keep the door locked at all times — even while you are in the apartment. Chain-type locks, which are easy to break, offer very little resistance to forced entry.
Install a door viewer (peephole) in your entrance door, if you do not already have one. If you have children, consider installing a peephole at their level.
Balcony Doors
Intrusion is not just a ground floor or corridor door threat. Always lock balcony doors when you are away from home. Equip balcony doors with the same type of deadbolt locks recommended for corridor doors. There is special hardware to secure sliding balcony doors but a simple, effective, inexpensive solution is a sturdy piece of wood in the door’s track to prevent the sliding door from opening. Make sure the sliding part of the door can’t be lifted from its track.
Items on the balcony are also vulnerable to theft. If thieves see valuables on a balcony — such as bicycles — they will climb a ladder to steal them. Conceal and secure items you cannot store inside. Lock bicycles.
Windows
Make sure all windows close fully, that the locking hardware is in good condition and that it is easy to lock the window when you shut it. Ensure that a thief cannot lift a horizontal window out of its track. Even on upper floors, a thief can get into your apartment through an open window overlooking a balcony.
Storage Room
If you have a separate locker or storage room, store items out of reach and up off the floor. Cover them. Often, locker walls are chain-link fencing or wood slats. This means anyone can see what is in your locker and that your belongings are exposed to spills or floods. Also, ensure that door hinges and screws of the locking system are covered when the access door is locked. This will prevent a thief from getting into the locker by unscrewing the hasp or hinges.
Building Entry System
The front door entry system of most apartment buildings allows a resident to remotely let guests into the building. These systems are only effective if the front door locking system functions and intruders cannot take advantage of an open door to enter the building.
When you activate the front door entry system, make sure you know who is asking to come in and remind them to close the door behind them. If you have young children or children visit often, ensure they know how to correctly operate the remote entry system. Would-be intruders will sometimes buzz different apartments until someone lets them in. Always be sure that you know the person before you let them into the apartment building. If you are unsure, notify the building management of the entry request so they can handle it.
Elevator Security
Look and see who is in the elevator before entering. If you feel uncomfortable, do not enter the elevator, wait for the next one.
Stand beside the control panel in the elevator and know how to use the emergency alarm button.
If a suspicious person enters the elevator, leave before the door closes.
Parking Garage Security
If possible, use the parking garage during periods of high use when others are around.
Watch for suspicious persons as you enter the parking garage. Drive back out if you are concerned.
Park near exit doors or the elevator foyer, if possible.
Park in well-lit areas.
Walk in the centre of the garage.
Ask building management to install security cameras and alarm stations if the garage has a history of theft or security problems.
Building Security
Tell your building management if you have problems with closing or locking windows and doors. Report burned-out and broken lights in common areas, such as corridors, stairwells, garbage rooms, laundry areas, parking garages and outdoor areas. If your building is equipped with security cameras or alarm stations, make sure you know where they are and how to use them in emergencies. Report any suspicious or unfamiliar people loitering inside or outside the building to the building management.
Neighbourhood Security
The safety of your neighbourhood has an effect on your building’s security. To find out if your building and neighbourhood are safe, contact your local police department at its non-emergency number. Many police departments have web sites with information about criminal incidents. Police departments will review your building’s security. Get involved with a neighbourhood watch-type program or start one yourself — it is good protection and helps builds a sense of community. Sometimes, if conditions warrant, it may be necessary to hire a security company.
Security Responsibility
The landlord or the condominium corporation (often through a property manager) is usually responsible for building security. Typically this involves:
ensuring that security systems meet or exceed security requirements for apartment buildings, such as deadbolt locks on doors, good lighting and window locks;
ensuring that security systems provide reasonable protection for all residents — in their apartments and in common areas, such as parking garages and elevators;
conducting regular inspections to spot and fix security problems, such as broken locks or burned-out exterior lights, and asking residents to submit security concerns or suggestions as part of continuing maintenance;
dealing with complaints about dangerous situations, suspicious activities or broken security items.
Personal Security
Personal security is largely a matter of continuing awareness of your surroundings, and reducing risks. As you approach your building, if something does not “feel” right, do not enter; go to another entrance or exit or get help from the building management or the police. If possible, schedule your arrivals and departures with other residents. Park your car in well-lit areas as close as possible to building entrances.
Do not leave messages on your phone saying you are away or on vacation. Tell a trustworthy neighbour when you plan to be away and ask the neighbour to pick up mail and flyers. Cancel newspaper subscriptions and consider using lights (energy efficient compact fluorescents are best as they consume the least electricity) and a radio on timers to make it look, and sound, as if someone is at home. Do not put a note on your door saying you are away. Cover the window in your mailbox (if there is one) to avoid drawing attention to an accumulation of mail.
Police, insurance companies and private security professionals can advise you or your landlord on ways to make your apartment building more secure.
You can do your part to keep the apartment building secure:
Report any security concerns or problems to the building manager or landlord.
Do not disable security features. Safety latches on windows keep intruders out — and children in.
Do not prop exit doors open. These doors are designed to stay closed for security and fire safety.
Do not hold the door for a stranger to enter. Be wary of strangers who linger around the front door and dash to hold the door open after it has been unlocked.
Do not give your apartment keys or pass cards to strangers or tell strangers the access codes to the building.
Tell building management and security personnel when you are planning to have work done on your apartment. Do not let anyone in to work in your apartment unless you, the landlord or the building manager has previously arranged for the work. Be wary of “security personnel” who knock unannounced.
If you live near the ground and you like to open your windows, make sure the windows do not open wide enough to let someone through. Use a window safety device (see “Preventing Falls from Windows and Balconies.”) You can also restrict a window opening with a removable nail or by placing a shortened broomstick in the track. Modifying the window itself, however, may void its warranty.
If you or a family member has a disability, ensure that security features, such as locks on windows and doors, peepholes and security cameras, accommodate your needs.
How Safe is Your Apartment?
Safe and secure living is more than just locks and security features. Fire, falls and everyday household items and activities can affect your safety. Be aware and prepared and you can significantly reduce the safety risks in both your apartment and your building.
Preventing Falls from Windows and Balconies
Falls are one of the leading causes of injury and death among children. Children are often tempted to climb up to apartment windows and balcony guardrails to get a better view. In such instances, a fall can happen in a matter of seconds. Never leave children unattended on a balcony or near an open window.
Many municipalities require apartment windows to have mechanical safety devices to prevent them from opening more than 10 cm (4 in.). These safety devices protect children. If you remove or disable them, you can endanger the life of a child who lives with you or visits your apartment. Make sure that your windows have mechanical safety devices and that they work properly. Window screens are not strong enough to prevent falls by even the smallest child.
Preventing Falls Checklist
Ensure all windows more than 2 m (6 ft.) above the ground have safety devices.
Make sure everyone in your apartment (including children) knows that window screens cannot prevent a fall.
Keep cribs, beds, chairs and any furniture a child can climb away from all windows.
Lock doors to balconies with a childproof lock.
Keep chairs and anything else a child can climb away from balcony railings.
Do not store items children can move and climb on balconies.
Always supervise a child on a balcony. Never leave a child unattended on a balcony — even for a moment.
Preventing Falls Elsewhere:
Windows and balconies are not the only fall hazards in an apartment building. Poorly lit stairwells, slippery or uneven entry steps, slippery lobby floors, clutter on apartment floors and wet bathroom floors are also falling hazards, especially for older people. To prevent falls in your apartment:
Keep your floors free of clutter and clean up spills immediately.
Don’t use throw rugs or scatter rugs on hard surfaces. If you have them, use a slip-resistant underlay. Use night lights in hallways, particularly between the bedroom and bathroom.
In the bathroom, use non-slip mats in and beside the tub and, if needed, install grab bars and use a bath stool or bench.
Use a proper stepstool or short ladder to reach upper cabinets, change light bulbs and so on. The stepstool should have a handle and rubber-tipped feet to prevent slipping.
Store heavy items on lower shelves and often-used items within easy arm’s reach to reduce the need to use a stepstool.
Repair damaged floor surfaces (bent vinyl tile, torn or wrinkled carpet) to prevent tripping.
In the common areas of your apartment building, be aware of:
floor coverings that become slippery when wet, such as marble floors in lobbies;
poorly lit stairwells and entrances. Stairs and entranceways should be well lit from above with a light switch at the top and bottom of the steps or an automatic switch;
steep, winding, slippery or non-uniform steps in entrances and stairwells. The steps should have a consistent rise and tread depth with clearly defined edges;
missing or loose handrails on stairs. All stairs should have a securely attached handrail in good repair — preferably one on each side of the stairway;
tripping hazards, such as cracks in sidewalks, damaged floor tiles or worn spots in hallway carpets;
ice, snow and debris at entrances and on sidewalks.
If you notice hazards or unsafe conditions in or around your building, tell your building manager or landlord.
Combustion Safety
Some apartments have natural-gas furnaces, hot water tanks and fireplaces. Some even have wood-burning appliances. These appliances burn fuel to produce heat. The burning produces dangerous gases that must be vented outdoors — usually through a chimney or a side wall vent that looks like a plastic pipe or metal duct. If the combustion gases are not vented properly, it creates a serious health hazard in your apartment.
To prevent problems from fuel-fired appliances in your unit:
ensure the appliances and venting systems are serviced annually;
never place items on or around fuel-fired appliances if the items could disrupt air flow to or around the appliance;
never block outdoor air ducts that provide combustion air to the appliances;
operate the exhaust hood over a gas-fired stove range when you cook;
never fully or partially obstruct chimneys or vents on the outside walls of your apartment;
report any problems with your appliances to the building management (if you rent) or to a contractor (if you own the condominium and the equipment);
report buildups of ice, bird nests or other blockages on outside vents.
Carbon Monoxide
Carbon monoxide (CO) is an odourless, tasteless, colourless, toxic gas produced by the incomplete combustion of fossil fuels. CO can escape into the living space of your apartment from a damaged or improperly functioning gas-fired furnace, fireplace or any other combustion appliance. If you live above or beside a parking garage, CO may be able to enter your apartment. Install a CO detector in your apartment if you have any combustion appliances in your unit or live above or beside a parking garage. Small amounts of CO may be produced by gas ranges — ensure that you operate the rangehood or open a window when the stove is in use.
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Out with the clutter!
Thanks to Pillar to Post for this tidbit of information:
Preparing a home for sale requires more than an average cleaning. Most sellers understand that they must keep their house neat and tidy in order to attract potential buyers, but many may be overwhelmed or sidetracked when faced with seriously removing clutter. Beyond dusting and scrubbing, a de-cluttered home shows off its spaciousness and allows potential buyers to imagine themselves living there. Here are a few proven strategies to help homeowners take control of their space.
Empty it Out
Once you have identified your clutter hot spots it's time to pull everything out of that closet, shelving unit, or drawer and sort through what you really do and do not need. Start slowly and resist the urge to go into a frenzied clean. A successful purge requires time, commitment and motivation.
The Uselessness of Potential
Sometimes the hardest things to let go of are the things we've never used. Giving up on the idea of what that thing could be is an important part of letting it go. This is true for the things we've used but may never use again. A good rule of thumb: if you haven't used it in a year then you probably don't need it.
Give it a Home
Staying organized sometimes means finding a place for something and keeping it there. Key rings, newspaper racks, bill holders, and plastic storage containers can all help calm that "where did I put it?" frantic feeling.
Get it Out
Once you have made a pile of things to be cleared out the final step is making sure it gets out of your house! A yard sale can clear out the clutter and bring in some extra cash. If putting together a sale is too much work, donate your extra goods to your favorite local charity.
Kick the Habit
Once you've cleared out the clutter, it's important to adopt habits that prevent the problem from occurring again. Establish routines to help such as sorting mail over the recycle bin, always keeping a "give away" box in your hallway, and thinking twice about whether or not you really need something before you buy it. Cutting down is another way to fend off clutter!
Preparing a home for sale requires more than an average cleaning. Most sellers understand that they must keep their house neat and tidy in order to attract potential buyers, but many may be overwhelmed or sidetracked when faced with seriously removing clutter. Beyond dusting and scrubbing, a de-cluttered home shows off its spaciousness and allows potential buyers to imagine themselves living there. Here are a few proven strategies to help homeowners take control of their space.
Empty it Out
Once you have identified your clutter hot spots it's time to pull everything out of that closet, shelving unit, or drawer and sort through what you really do and do not need. Start slowly and resist the urge to go into a frenzied clean. A successful purge requires time, commitment and motivation.
The Uselessness of Potential
Sometimes the hardest things to let go of are the things we've never used. Giving up on the idea of what that thing could be is an important part of letting it go. This is true for the things we've used but may never use again. A good rule of thumb: if you haven't used it in a year then you probably don't need it.
Give it a Home
Staying organized sometimes means finding a place for something and keeping it there. Key rings, newspaper racks, bill holders, and plastic storage containers can all help calm that "where did I put it?" frantic feeling.
Get it Out
Once you have made a pile of things to be cleared out the final step is making sure it gets out of your house! A yard sale can clear out the clutter and bring in some extra cash. If putting together a sale is too much work, donate your extra goods to your favorite local charity.
Kick the Habit
Once you've cleared out the clutter, it's important to adopt habits that prevent the problem from occurring again. Establish routines to help such as sorting mail over the recycle bin, always keeping a "give away" box in your hallway, and thinking twice about whether or not you really need something before you buy it. Cutting down is another way to fend off clutter!
Friday, August 21, 2009
Tourists Beaming in to Vulcan
This article is from the Town of Vulcan Newsletter - Volume 32 August 17, 2009
At 2:45pm MDT, Tuesday August 4, 2009 the Vulcan Tourism & Trek Station welcomed the 16,694 visitor through its doors this year, officially breaking the record for the total number of annual visitors to Vulcan set at the end of 2008. As of Monday August 10, the Trek Station's visitor numbers are continuing to skyrocket - already tourism staff have welcomed 1,383 visitors in the first 10 days of the month.
Thanks in part to the success of the new Star Trek movie, released in May 2009, more visitors than ever before are laying in a course to this quirky little science-fiction town on the prairies.
"Tourism is hopping in Vulcan this year," delared Tourism Coordinator, Dayna Dickens, "and with just under five months remaining in 2009, it looks like we are going to shatter last year's visitor record!"
In addition to teh increased interest in Vulcan, generated by the release of the new film, Dickens notices more people are staying close to home this year and exploring some of the undiscovered tourism gems in their own backyards."
"According to visitor stats, 40% of our guests are originating in Calgary and Southern Alberta" reports Dickens. "Being only a one hour drive from both Calgary and Lethbridge, Vulcan is an ideal destination for daytripping families looking for a fun activity."
At 2:45pm MDT, Tuesday August 4, 2009 the Vulcan Tourism & Trek Station welcomed the 16,694 visitor through its doors this year, officially breaking the record for the total number of annual visitors to Vulcan set at the end of 2008. As of Monday August 10, the Trek Station's visitor numbers are continuing to skyrocket - already tourism staff have welcomed 1,383 visitors in the first 10 days of the month.
Thanks in part to the success of the new Star Trek movie, released in May 2009, more visitors than ever before are laying in a course to this quirky little science-fiction town on the prairies.
"Tourism is hopping in Vulcan this year," delared Tourism Coordinator, Dayna Dickens, "and with just under five months remaining in 2009, it looks like we are going to shatter last year's visitor record!"
In addition to teh increased interest in Vulcan, generated by the release of the new film, Dickens notices more people are staying close to home this year and exploring some of the undiscovered tourism gems in their own backyards."
"According to visitor stats, 40% of our guests are originating in Calgary and Southern Alberta" reports Dickens. "Being only a one hour drive from both Calgary and Lethbridge, Vulcan is an ideal destination for daytripping families looking for a fun activity."
Friday, July 31, 2009
Set the Stage - Make Your Windows Ultra Clean
Another helpful hint from Pillar to Post:
Use this solution.
Put 1/4 cup rubbing alcohol in a 1-qt. spray bottle and fill with water. Give it a shake, and it's ready to use!
Sayonara, stubborn streaks.
All you need is a small squeegee, a sponge and two squirts of dish detergent in a bucket of water. Use the sponge to wet the window with the solution, than squeegee the streaks away!
Smart paper towel substitute.
Hate the lint left behind by paper towels? Use coffee filters to clean instead. Your windows will shine.
Use the news.
The best trick for drying off windows and leaving them without lines is newspaper. Crumple up a piece and wipe away excess liquid.
Lemony clean.
Clean your windows and scent your home at the same time. Add a 1/4 cup lemon juice and 1/2 tsp. dishwashing liquid to 1 cup of water, put this mixture in a spray bottle for a green glass cleaner that smells great.
Great idea.
Wash the windows when the sun is not shining directly on the glass. The suns heat causes the windows to dry too fast, which can lead to streaks.
Use this solution.
Put 1/4 cup rubbing alcohol in a 1-qt. spray bottle and fill with water. Give it a shake, and it's ready to use!
Sayonara, stubborn streaks.
All you need is a small squeegee, a sponge and two squirts of dish detergent in a bucket of water. Use the sponge to wet the window with the solution, than squeegee the streaks away!
Smart paper towel substitute.
Hate the lint left behind by paper towels? Use coffee filters to clean instead. Your windows will shine.
Use the news.
The best trick for drying off windows and leaving them without lines is newspaper. Crumple up a piece and wipe away excess liquid.
Lemony clean.
Clean your windows and scent your home at the same time. Add a 1/4 cup lemon juice and 1/2 tsp. dishwashing liquid to 1 cup of water, put this mixture in a spray bottle for a green glass cleaner that smells great.
Great idea.
Wash the windows when the sun is not shining directly on the glass. The suns heat causes the windows to dry too fast, which can lead to streaks.
Time For A Vacation!
Vacations are key to staying energized, focused, rested and motivated. When you are energized and motivated, you perform better. Not all vacations are created equally however, and there are definitely some guidelines and "best practices" to ensure that you get the most out of your vacation.
Here are "The 5 Secrets to Taking A Great Vacation" -- enjoy!
Secret #1: Schedule and pay for your trips at least six months or more in advance.
By planning, scheduling and paying for your trips far in advance, you're almost certain to actually take them.
Benefit: When you plan that far in advance, you get to look forward to it for months! It's a great motivator.
Secret #2: Go somewhere special.
Make a list right now of the six places you and your family would love to go to. Then enlist their help! It's a great family activity. Book it now. Buy the airfare, book the hotel and car and pay for it.
Benefit: Watch the attitude of your family change -- for the better.
Secret #3: Don't return to work until Tuesday!
Even though you get back Saturday or Sunday, don't go right back to the office. Give yourself time to readjust. Nothing ruins a good vacation more than going back to work the very next day.
Benefit: Reduce post vacation stress.
Secret #4: Take at least one mini vacation per quarter.
Also, plan to take at least one extended weekend break per quarter. Go somewhere on one. Spend others around the house getting things done or just relaxing. All the rules apply: plan, schedule, and pay in advance.
Benefit:Even more to look forward to!
Secret #5: Don't work while on vacation.
Your vacation is exactly that - a vacation! Leave your laptop, blackberry, and paperwork at the office. Resist the temptation to check in with your office. This is your and your family's time. Ask your sales manager or assistant to handle all business while away. They will do fine without you, and it will all be there when you return.
Benefit: You will actually feel like you're on vacation and you'll enjoy it even more!
If you follow these rules, you will not only enjoy your life more, but you'll be more productive at work as well. Imagine that -- more successful and happier!
Here are "The 5 Secrets to Taking A Great Vacation" -- enjoy!
Secret #1: Schedule and pay for your trips at least six months or more in advance.
By planning, scheduling and paying for your trips far in advance, you're almost certain to actually take them.
Benefit: When you plan that far in advance, you get to look forward to it for months! It's a great motivator.
Secret #2: Go somewhere special.
Make a list right now of the six places you and your family would love to go to. Then enlist their help! It's a great family activity. Book it now. Buy the airfare, book the hotel and car and pay for it.
Benefit: Watch the attitude of your family change -- for the better.
Secret #3: Don't return to work until Tuesday!
Even though you get back Saturday or Sunday, don't go right back to the office. Give yourself time to readjust. Nothing ruins a good vacation more than going back to work the very next day.
Benefit: Reduce post vacation stress.
Secret #4: Take at least one mini vacation per quarter.
Also, plan to take at least one extended weekend break per quarter. Go somewhere on one. Spend others around the house getting things done or just relaxing. All the rules apply: plan, schedule, and pay in advance.
Benefit:Even more to look forward to!
Secret #5: Don't work while on vacation.
Your vacation is exactly that - a vacation! Leave your laptop, blackberry, and paperwork at the office. Resist the temptation to check in with your office. This is your and your family's time. Ask your sales manager or assistant to handle all business while away. They will do fine without you, and it will all be there when you return.
Benefit: You will actually feel like you're on vacation and you'll enjoy it even more!
If you follow these rules, you will not only enjoy your life more, but you'll be more productive at work as well. Imagine that -- more successful and happier!
Monday, July 13, 2009
Does your house have curb appeal?
The following is an excerpt from Pillar to Post home inspectors. I thought it had some good ideas!
"We've all heard the old adage "you never get a second chance to make a first impression." This is especially true when it comes to your home. If you're thinking about selling, there's no more important audience to attract than potential buyers, who are highly influenced by how a home looks the first time they get a glimpse of it. Even if your goal is just to impress your neighbors and guests you should pay close attention to the first impression your home in making. Here are a few simple tips and techniques that can positively affect your home's "curb appeal" and perhaps even its value.
Clean Up and Repair:
The most useful chores to tackle first are basic maintenance and repairs before moving onto larger projects. Clean windows and siding, make sure outdoor lights are working, stow away yard tools and equipment, and clean up dead branches and leaves. Make sure that fences, walkways, and the driveway are in good repair too - a home that looks well taken care of is always more attractive to buyers.
Landscaping:
A full landscape overhaul may not be necessary, but your yard, especially in the front, should look neat and well maintained. Trim any overgrown shrubs, remove weeds, and tidy up planting areas. If the season is right, add some colorful flowering plants to brighten up areas around walkways and the front entrance. It's an easy and inexpensive way to create an instantly welcoming feeling.
The Entrance:
The front door is another key element of that all-important first impression, and should reflect the style of the home. If replacement is cost-prohibitive, consider reviving a tired, faded door with a fresh coat of paint in a great accent color and swapping out the hardware.
Paint It New:
Brighten up the exterior of your home with a new paint job. Driving around your neighborhood may inspire some ideas of what may be flattering to your home. If you're planning to sell your home, it's usually best to go with colors that have widespread appeal so that potential buyers won't be put off by unusual colors or combinations. Painting the exterior can add significantly to the home's value."
"We've all heard the old adage "you never get a second chance to make a first impression." This is especially true when it comes to your home. If you're thinking about selling, there's no more important audience to attract than potential buyers, who are highly influenced by how a home looks the first time they get a glimpse of it. Even if your goal is just to impress your neighbors and guests you should pay close attention to the first impression your home in making. Here are a few simple tips and techniques that can positively affect your home's "curb appeal" and perhaps even its value.
Clean Up and Repair:
The most useful chores to tackle first are basic maintenance and repairs before moving onto larger projects. Clean windows and siding, make sure outdoor lights are working, stow away yard tools and equipment, and clean up dead branches and leaves. Make sure that fences, walkways, and the driveway are in good repair too - a home that looks well taken care of is always more attractive to buyers.
Landscaping:
A full landscape overhaul may not be necessary, but your yard, especially in the front, should look neat and well maintained. Trim any overgrown shrubs, remove weeds, and tidy up planting areas. If the season is right, add some colorful flowering plants to brighten up areas around walkways and the front entrance. It's an easy and inexpensive way to create an instantly welcoming feeling.
The Entrance:
The front door is another key element of that all-important first impression, and should reflect the style of the home. If replacement is cost-prohibitive, consider reviving a tired, faded door with a fresh coat of paint in a great accent color and swapping out the hardware.
Paint It New:
Brighten up the exterior of your home with a new paint job. Driving around your neighborhood may inspire some ideas of what may be flattering to your home. If you're planning to sell your home, it's usually best to go with colors that have widespread appeal so that potential buyers won't be put off by unusual colors or combinations. Painting the exterior can add significantly to the home's value."
Sunday, July 12, 2009
HOW TO INSTALL A HOME SECURITY SYSTEM ON A BUDGET
1. Go to a second-hand store and buy a pair of men's used size 14-16 work boots.
2. Place them on your front porch, along with several empty beer cans, a copy of Guns & Ammo magazine and several NRA magazines.
3. Put a few giant dog dishes next to the boots and magazines.
4. Leave a note on your door that reads:
"Hey Bubba, Big Jim, Duke and Slim, I went to teh gun shop for more ammunition. Back in an hour. Don't mess with the pit bulls - they attached the mailman this morning and messed him up real bad. I don't think Killer took part in it but it was hard to tell from all the blood.
PS - I locked all four of 'em in the house. Better wait outside."
INSTALLATION COMPLETE!!
(hey, we all need a good laugh now and then!)
2. Place them on your front porch, along with several empty beer cans, a copy of Guns & Ammo magazine and several NRA magazines.
3. Put a few giant dog dishes next to the boots and magazines.
4. Leave a note on your door that reads:
"Hey Bubba, Big Jim, Duke and Slim, I went to teh gun shop for more ammunition. Back in an hour. Don't mess with the pit bulls - they attached the mailman this morning and messed him up real bad. I don't think Killer took part in it but it was hard to tell from all the blood.
PS - I locked all four of 'em in the house. Better wait outside."
INSTALLATION COMPLETE!!
(hey, we all need a good laugh now and then!)
Monday, June 8, 2009
First time home buyer tips
Are you a first-time home buyer trying to get into the market?
Here are steps to take to help you decide whether you're ready to take the plunge.
1. Check the selling prices of comparable homes in your area. You can do a quick search of MLS listings in your area.
2. See what you can afford. Find out what you would have to pay on your mortgage.
3. Find out what your total monthly housing cost would be, including taxes and homeowners insurance. In some areas, what you'll pay for your taxes and insurance can almost double your mortgage payment. To get an idea of what you'll pay in insurance, pick a property in the area where you want to live and make a call to a local insurance agent for an estimate. You won't be obligated to get the insurance, but you'll have a good idea of what you'll pay if you buy.
4. Find out how much you'll likely pay in closing costs. The upfront cost of settling on your home shouldn't be overlooked. Closing costs include origination fees charged by the lender, title and settlement fees, taxes and prepaid items such as homeowners insurance or homeowner’s association fees.
5. Look at your budget and determine how a house fits into it.
6. Talk to reputable real-estate agents in your area about the real-estate climate. Do they believe prices will continue falling or do they think your area has hit bottom or will rise soon?
7. Remember to look at the big picture. While buying a house is a great way to build wealth, maintaining your investment can be labor-intensive and expensive. When unexpected costs for new appliances, roof repairs and plumbing problems crop up, there's no landlord to turn to, and these costs can drain your bank account.
Here are steps to take to help you decide whether you're ready to take the plunge.
1. Check the selling prices of comparable homes in your area. You can do a quick search of MLS listings in your area.
2. See what you can afford. Find out what you would have to pay on your mortgage.
3. Find out what your total monthly housing cost would be, including taxes and homeowners insurance. In some areas, what you'll pay for your taxes and insurance can almost double your mortgage payment. To get an idea of what you'll pay in insurance, pick a property in the area where you want to live and make a call to a local insurance agent for an estimate. You won't be obligated to get the insurance, but you'll have a good idea of what you'll pay if you buy.
4. Find out how much you'll likely pay in closing costs. The upfront cost of settling on your home shouldn't be overlooked. Closing costs include origination fees charged by the lender, title and settlement fees, taxes and prepaid items such as homeowners insurance or homeowner’s association fees.
5. Look at your budget and determine how a house fits into it.
6. Talk to reputable real-estate agents in your area about the real-estate climate. Do they believe prices will continue falling or do they think your area has hit bottom or will rise soon?
7. Remember to look at the big picture. While buying a house is a great way to build wealth, maintaining your investment can be labor-intensive and expensive. When unexpected costs for new appliances, roof repairs and plumbing problems crop up, there's no landlord to turn to, and these costs can drain your bank account.
Monday, June 1, 2009
Make your home a smarter home
10 weekend projects to make yours a smarter home
For the most part, having a smart home is simply a matter of energy efficiency. These projects, plus 14 quick tips, will help you save both energy and money.
By Popular Mechanics
Kitchen
1. Find sustainable finishes.
Kitchen upgrades offer a chance to choose products made from recycled or renewable materials. Consider a stone countertop made with recycled glass, a sustainable cork or natural linoleum floor, or cabinetry made from formaldehyde-free plywood.
2. Go chemical-free.
Caustic chemicals will partially dissolve a clog, but they contaminate water supplies and the fix won’t last. Instead, turn to the sink plunger — its flat bottom sits flush with the sink, unlike a bell-shaped toilet plunger. Before snaking a drain or removing the sink’s trap, try using needle-nose pliers or creatively bent coat hangers.
_________________________________________________
more on PopularMechanics.com
19 ways to slash your utility bill
Save money by sealing leaks and drafts
PM war journal: A day at Forward Operating Base Salerno
Gallery: 10 geeky ways to deliver mail
Read more from Popular Mechanics
_________________________________________________
Living room
3. Build better fires.
To boost efficiency in the fireplace, begin by replacing the leak-prone midchimney “throat” damper with a “top-sealing” or “chimney cap” damper. This opens, shuts and seals like a storm door for the chimney. Then add a fireback — a handsome iron plate that protects firebox brick and radiates heat into the room. A fireplace heater will distribute the fire’s warmth by circulating air into the fireplace. A heat exchanger warms the air and fans blow it (smoke-free) back into the room, increasing the fireplace’s efficiency from 5% to 65%. If you don’t use your fireplace at all, contact the National Chimney Sweep Guild to find a certified contractor to seal your flue, which will prevent heat loss through the chimney.
4. Upgrade the thermostat.
Nearly half of the average home’s $2,000 annual energy bill goes toward heating and cooling, but a programmable thermostat can reduce that figure by about $180. Instead of a seven-day model, opt for a five-plus-two-day one — this will allow you to program the temperature for different weekday and weekend schedules, maximizing comfort and efficiency.
Basement
5. Insulate the edges.
Sealing a basement’s perimeter walls with a vapor barrier and insulation helps heating and cooling systems work less hard to maintain indoor temperature and humidity. Insulate the ceiling’s joist bays against the foundation walls with expandable foam for an airtight seal. Then spray foam to plug up gaps where pipes and vents exit the house.
6. Heat water wisely.
Use foam jackets to insulate exposed hot-water pipes within 5 to 10 feet of the heater. Gas users can upgrade to fuel-saving tankless heaters; electric users should add timers so water stays hot only when it’s needed.
Attic
7. Ventilate the space.
Install inconspicuous ridge vents that run the length of the attic’s peak. These work with soffit vents to cool the attic in summer; in winter, an exit route for warm air reduces the risk of leak-causing ice dams.
8. Cut air conditioning consumption.
Whole-house fans pull in outside air through the downstairs windows and push out hot air through the attic vents, cooling your house at a fraction of the cost of central air conditioning. Effective except on the most stifling summer days, the typical whole-house fan consumes less than 600 watts, but a 5-ton central air unit can draw more than 6,000. Solar-powered attic fans are very efficient, too, but ventilate only the attic space, not the living area.
Yard
9. Make decks last decades.
Composite decking built with recycled plastic uses waste headed for a landfill. Redwood, cedar and ipê (pronounced ee-pay) naturally resist rot and can last much longer than pressure-treated wood. But buy only lumber certified “Pure” by the Forest Stewardship Council — there are no bad species, just bad forestry.
10. Add an awning.
Decks reflect the sun’s rays into your house, but adding shade above nearby windows and glass doors can reduce heat intake by up to 77%. In the summer, a retractable awning cuts an adjacent room’s air conditioning use by nearly 25%. It rolls out of the way in the winter to allow warm sunlight in.
14 steps to take today
Stroll through your home with Popular Mechanics’ list of low-cost (or free!) upgrades, making quick fixes as you go.
Turn down the water heater: Lower the temperature to 120 F, and for every 10-degree drop, you recoup 3% to 5% of the power bill. No temperature dial on the tank? Check the temperature at the tap farthest from the heater.
Unplug appliances: Turn off power strips or pull the plug on appliances completely. Idle machines suck up 11% of your home’s electricity.
Clean your dryer: Slip a shop-vacuum hose into the dryer’s guts to remove lint wads and boost efficiency. Use an electric leaf blower to clear lint from vents that lead to the outside. It’ll work like new.
Optimize heating and cooling: Move furniture and rugs away from vents and radiators. Run a fan with the cooling system raised 2 degrees to drop cooling costs by 14%.
Drip-irrigate beds: Line gardens with hoses — no sprinklers, no hassle. Use mulch to retain moisture, and set timers to water in the morning.
Adjust mower blades: Cut no more than one-third the grass blades’ height — this helps your lawn develop strong roots, remain moist and absorb runoff.
Trust the dishwasher: Fully loaded, the dishwasher uses less water than hand-washing dishes. Save power by using the air-dry mode, not heat.
Insulate the attic hatch: Keep the conditioned air downstairs by weatherstripping the attic hatch’s edges. Cover the hatch with rigid polystyrene insulation.
Use small appliances: Downsize your cooking device: Toaster ovens consume half the energy of a full-size electric oven; microwaves use only one-third.
Install storm windows: Storm windows reduce heat loss through windows by 25% to 50%. Magnetic internal storm windows go up without a ladder.
Streamline the fridge: Fridges work best at about 38 F; freezers should register between 0 F and 5 F. Leave a thermometer inside for 24 hours, then check it.
Keep filters clean: Pleated electrostatic filters catch up to 60% of allergens (blue fiberglass ones catch only lint and dust). Change them every two to three months or as soon as they show discoloration.
Draw the curtains: Cover windows to prevent air loss. Curtains engineered for insulation multiply the R-value (a measure of thermal resistance) of standard insulated glass.
Fix a leaky toilet: Drop food coloring in the tank; if it ends up in the bowl, there’s a leak. Replacing the flapper can save thousands of gallons of water a year.
For the most part, having a smart home is simply a matter of energy efficiency. These projects, plus 14 quick tips, will help you save both energy and money.
By Popular Mechanics
Kitchen
1. Find sustainable finishes.
Kitchen upgrades offer a chance to choose products made from recycled or renewable materials. Consider a stone countertop made with recycled glass, a sustainable cork or natural linoleum floor, or cabinetry made from formaldehyde-free plywood.
2. Go chemical-free.
Caustic chemicals will partially dissolve a clog, but they contaminate water supplies and the fix won’t last. Instead, turn to the sink plunger — its flat bottom sits flush with the sink, unlike a bell-shaped toilet plunger. Before snaking a drain or removing the sink’s trap, try using needle-nose pliers or creatively bent coat hangers.
_________________________________________________
more on PopularMechanics.com
19 ways to slash your utility bill
Save money by sealing leaks and drafts
PM war journal: A day at Forward Operating Base Salerno
Gallery: 10 geeky ways to deliver mail
Read more from Popular Mechanics
_________________________________________________
Living room
3. Build better fires.
To boost efficiency in the fireplace, begin by replacing the leak-prone midchimney “throat” damper with a “top-sealing” or “chimney cap” damper. This opens, shuts and seals like a storm door for the chimney. Then add a fireback — a handsome iron plate that protects firebox brick and radiates heat into the room. A fireplace heater will distribute the fire’s warmth by circulating air into the fireplace. A heat exchanger warms the air and fans blow it (smoke-free) back into the room, increasing the fireplace’s efficiency from 5% to 65%. If you don’t use your fireplace at all, contact the National Chimney Sweep Guild to find a certified contractor to seal your flue, which will prevent heat loss through the chimney.
4. Upgrade the thermostat.
Nearly half of the average home’s $2,000 annual energy bill goes toward heating and cooling, but a programmable thermostat can reduce that figure by about $180. Instead of a seven-day model, opt for a five-plus-two-day one — this will allow you to program the temperature for different weekday and weekend schedules, maximizing comfort and efficiency.
Basement
5. Insulate the edges.
Sealing a basement’s perimeter walls with a vapor barrier and insulation helps heating and cooling systems work less hard to maintain indoor temperature and humidity. Insulate the ceiling’s joist bays against the foundation walls with expandable foam for an airtight seal. Then spray foam to plug up gaps where pipes and vents exit the house.
6. Heat water wisely.
Use foam jackets to insulate exposed hot-water pipes within 5 to 10 feet of the heater. Gas users can upgrade to fuel-saving tankless heaters; electric users should add timers so water stays hot only when it’s needed.
Attic
7. Ventilate the space.
Install inconspicuous ridge vents that run the length of the attic’s peak. These work with soffit vents to cool the attic in summer; in winter, an exit route for warm air reduces the risk of leak-causing ice dams.
8. Cut air conditioning consumption.
Whole-house fans pull in outside air through the downstairs windows and push out hot air through the attic vents, cooling your house at a fraction of the cost of central air conditioning. Effective except on the most stifling summer days, the typical whole-house fan consumes less than 600 watts, but a 5-ton central air unit can draw more than 6,000. Solar-powered attic fans are very efficient, too, but ventilate only the attic space, not the living area.
Yard
9. Make decks last decades.
Composite decking built with recycled plastic uses waste headed for a landfill. Redwood, cedar and ipê (pronounced ee-pay) naturally resist rot and can last much longer than pressure-treated wood. But buy only lumber certified “Pure” by the Forest Stewardship Council — there are no bad species, just bad forestry.
10. Add an awning.
Decks reflect the sun’s rays into your house, but adding shade above nearby windows and glass doors can reduce heat intake by up to 77%. In the summer, a retractable awning cuts an adjacent room’s air conditioning use by nearly 25%. It rolls out of the way in the winter to allow warm sunlight in.
14 steps to take today
Stroll through your home with Popular Mechanics’ list of low-cost (or free!) upgrades, making quick fixes as you go.
Turn down the water heater: Lower the temperature to 120 F, and for every 10-degree drop, you recoup 3% to 5% of the power bill. No temperature dial on the tank? Check the temperature at the tap farthest from the heater.
Unplug appliances: Turn off power strips or pull the plug on appliances completely. Idle machines suck up 11% of your home’s electricity.
Clean your dryer: Slip a shop-vacuum hose into the dryer’s guts to remove lint wads and boost efficiency. Use an electric leaf blower to clear lint from vents that lead to the outside. It’ll work like new.
Optimize heating and cooling: Move furniture and rugs away from vents and radiators. Run a fan with the cooling system raised 2 degrees to drop cooling costs by 14%.
Drip-irrigate beds: Line gardens with hoses — no sprinklers, no hassle. Use mulch to retain moisture, and set timers to water in the morning.
Adjust mower blades: Cut no more than one-third the grass blades’ height — this helps your lawn develop strong roots, remain moist and absorb runoff.
Trust the dishwasher: Fully loaded, the dishwasher uses less water than hand-washing dishes. Save power by using the air-dry mode, not heat.
Insulate the attic hatch: Keep the conditioned air downstairs by weatherstripping the attic hatch’s edges. Cover the hatch with rigid polystyrene insulation.
Use small appliances: Downsize your cooking device: Toaster ovens consume half the energy of a full-size electric oven; microwaves use only one-third.
Install storm windows: Storm windows reduce heat loss through windows by 25% to 50%. Magnetic internal storm windows go up without a ladder.
Streamline the fridge: Fridges work best at about 38 F; freezers should register between 0 F and 5 F. Leave a thermometer inside for 24 hours, then check it.
Keep filters clean: Pleated electrostatic filters catch up to 60% of allergens (blue fiberglass ones catch only lint and dust). Change them every two to three months or as soon as they show discoloration.
Draw the curtains: Cover windows to prevent air loss. Curtains engineered for insulation multiply the R-value (a measure of thermal resistance) of standard insulated glass.
Fix a leaky toilet: Drop food coloring in the tank; if it ends up in the bowl, there’s a leak. Replacing the flapper can save thousands of gallons of water a year.
Monday, May 4, 2009
Attached Garages and Indoor Air Quality
The following is an excerpt from Canada Mortgage and Housing Corportation newsletter. I thought it sounded interesting to I am passing it along to you.
Attached Garages and Indoor Air Quality
Canadians can spend an average of 90 per cent of their time indoors. Having clean indoor air is therefore critical for respiratory health.
Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) and others have published material on how to provide good indoor air quality (IAQ). However, there is one source of pollutants that we are just discovering: automotive pollution from attached garages. This About Your House discusses the risks of attached garages and how to keep car-based pollutants out of your house.
Attached garages are convenient, and are a common part of suburban houses. The attachment could be to the side of the house, with a room over top of the garage, or even as a part of what traditionally is the basement (see figures 1, 2 and 3).
Figure 1 — Garage attached at the side of the house
Figure 2 — Room over top of the garage
Figure 3 — Garage as part of the basement
Automobiles give off pollution. Starting a car in a garage, even with the garage door wide open, can result in a higher concentration of combustion pollutants (for example, carbon monoxide) in the garage and house.
Driving a car into the garage and closing the door results in emissions of various chemicals over the next several hours as the engine and its fluids cool down. The pollutants in the garage air can be drawn into the house over time.
This is not just a theoretical problem. In a survey done by Health Canada in more than 100 houses in Windsor, Ontario, the results were very clear.
Houses with attached garages had measurable concentrations of benzene (a gasoline related pollutant) in their indoor air. Houses with no garages or detached garages had little or no benzene. This is true of a host of other airborne chemicals. The study revealed that pollutants in attached garages can find their way into the house.
There are also secondary sources of pollutants in garages, apart from car-based emissions. There are many gas-powered appliances, such as lawn mowers, chain saws and edging tools whose emission systems are not as good as those found in cars. Chemicals such as pesticides and herbicides are also sources of pollutants.
One disconcerting fact is that garage-to-house air movement is not obvious or straightforward. In the 1990s, when the first inexpensive carbon monoxide (CO) sensors became commercially available, many started going off without an evident source of carbon monoxide. Responders such as utilities and fire departments often wrote off the incidents as false alarms, prompted by over-sensitive CO detectors. However, research in Minnesota (Wilber & Klossner, 1997) showed that the time delay of CO entry to the house from the garage could be a factor. When a cold car engine starts up in the garage, even with the main garage door open, it can generate up to several hundred parts per million of carbon monoxide gas in the garage. Once the car has left and the garage door is closed, the garage may still hold a relatively high CO concentration for hours. Air leaking from the garage to the house can cause the CO level in the house to start climbing. After several hours, the house CO level is high enough to set off the CO alarm, but by then the garage is low in CO and is not recognized as a source.
How Garage Air Gets Into Your House
It can be difficult to understand how and why garage air moves into the house. After all, there is at least one layer of drywall between the house and the garage, and a significant amount of insulation. The door from the attached garage to the house typically has weatherstripping and a spring to hold the door closed. So how does air enter?
Air can move through small cracks in the walls between the house and the garage, and through the top floor ceiling. There are many tiny holes and cracks that permit this air exchange to take place and they exist in all houses. It takes a sophisticated test with specialized tools, such as a blower door and leakage detection equipment, to find infiltration and exfiltration points.
Field tests by CMHC have discovered that the walls (and perhaps ceilings) between garages and the house can be as air leaky as the rest of the house. Some houses get most of their “fresh air” through the garage. One or two of those tested had so little leakage that there was no measurable air movement through the walls between house and garage. However, most garages have some air leaks, roughly in proportion to the size of the exterior wall.
But air movement into a house requires both a hole and a pressure difference. Does a pressure difference exist? Yes. CMHC measured the pressure difference across the house-garage wall and the house pressures are often lower than garage pressures, especially in winter. This is quite common in colder weather. Having exhaust fans or vented heating appliances also creates lower pressures inside the house, and garage air is drawn in through the leaks.
Preventing Garage-to-House Transfer in New Houses
The best way to prevent garage air entry into the house is to make sure that there are no leaks between the garage and the house. In new construction, this should be easy. The builder should make the interface walls and ceilings as airtight as possible. This is more readily done if the builder knows that reducing pollution transfer from the garage is a priority.
The builder should:
Ensure the airtightness of the garage ceiling and walls that are next to the house, before the insulation is installed and before installing drywall on the garage side.
Check all wall-to-wall junctions or wall-to-floor junctions and seal them. If the top of the basement wall is exposed in the garage, that header space can be notoriously leaky.
Diligently seal all penetrations from the house to the garage (wiring, central vacuum exhaust and so on).
Keep mechanical systems (furnaces, water heaters and so on) out of the garage. While most Canadian builders would not consider putting mechanical systems in the garage, it is common practice in parts of the U.S. The few Canadian houses that CMHC has tested (in B.C.) with heating systems located in the garage showed high levels of garage pollutants in house air.
Preventing Garage-to-House Pollution Transfer in Existing Houses
It is much harder to prevent air movement from a garage to a house in an existing house. In a house already built, there will be leakage areas but they are usually hidden. They are not easy to locate and not easy to seal.
However, air-sealing the garage-to-house walls and ceilings may still prove worthwhile. If the garage side has no drywall, sealing air leaks may be simple. If the drywall is simply screwed on the wall and is otherwise unfinished, removing the drywall gives access to the interior spaces. Finishing the drywall itself with drywall compound and paint, as well as caulking all visible cracks and joints, may improve airtightness.
Another approach involves installing an exhaust fan to vent garage air outside. A good bathroom fan could be used. By operating the fan, the garage becomes depressurized relative to the house thereby preventing air movement from the garage to the house. This will not impact to any great extent on house heating costs but there will be an electrical cost to run a fan.
The use of a garage exhaust fan may lower the garage pressure enough for airflow through the holes to go from the house to the garage, rather than the garage to the house. Check the pressure difference by opening the door to the house just a crack and feeling for air movement from the house to the garage. A smouldering string can also be used to detect air movement. If air is moving into the garage, the pressure is in the right direction. This will assure that garage pollutants do not enter house air.
To avoid high electrical costs, choose an exhaust fan with low energy consumption. To further reduce fan usage, have the fan activated for a period (for example, one hour) after the garage door is used.
Continuous use of the exhaust fan is recommended if:
There are a lot of noxious chemicals in the garage. Better yet, consider sending them to a hazardous waste disposal site.
The garage is used to store or maintain older vehicles with higher emissions.
There is a lot of coming to and going from the garage through the main garage door.
What to do
All buyers of new houses should confirm that their builder is aware of this issue and takes measures to do a good job of sealing air leakage paths. It is the only easy time to seal the air leakage points. An effective air sealing approach is far better than installing an exhaust fan after the fact.
Owners of existing houses have harder choices. If there is evident and annoying transfer of odours and drafts from the garage to the rooms next to the garage, the leaks should be located and sealed. If that task is too onerous or expensive, the garage exhaust fan solution could be considered.
Finally, if the attached garage is not used for vehicles (as is often true) and there are no other major chemical sources in that space, garage-to-house air movement should not be a significant problem.
Bibliography
Wilber, M.W., & Klossner, S.R. (1997).
A study of undiagnosed carbon monoxide complaints.
Proceedings of Healthy Buildings/IAQ ‘97, 3.
Related CMHC Information
Carbon Monoxide
Combustion Gases in Your Home — Things You Should Know About Combustion Spillage
How to Reduce Chemical Contaminants in Your Home
The Importance of Bathroom and Kitchen Fans
Breathe Healthier Air in Your Home: A Consumer Guide to Residential Indoor Air Quality Investigations
Garage Performance Testing
Clean Air Guide: How to Identify and Correct Indoor Air Problems in Your Home
Attached Garages and Indoor Air Quality
Canadians can spend an average of 90 per cent of their time indoors. Having clean indoor air is therefore critical for respiratory health.
Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) and others have published material on how to provide good indoor air quality (IAQ). However, there is one source of pollutants that we are just discovering: automotive pollution from attached garages. This About Your House discusses the risks of attached garages and how to keep car-based pollutants out of your house.
Attached garages are convenient, and are a common part of suburban houses. The attachment could be to the side of the house, with a room over top of the garage, or even as a part of what traditionally is the basement (see figures 1, 2 and 3).
Figure 1 — Garage attached at the side of the house
Figure 2 — Room over top of the garage
Figure 3 — Garage as part of the basement
Automobiles give off pollution. Starting a car in a garage, even with the garage door wide open, can result in a higher concentration of combustion pollutants (for example, carbon monoxide) in the garage and house.
Driving a car into the garage and closing the door results in emissions of various chemicals over the next several hours as the engine and its fluids cool down. The pollutants in the garage air can be drawn into the house over time.
This is not just a theoretical problem. In a survey done by Health Canada in more than 100 houses in Windsor, Ontario, the results were very clear.
Houses with attached garages had measurable concentrations of benzene (a gasoline related pollutant) in their indoor air. Houses with no garages or detached garages had little or no benzene. This is true of a host of other airborne chemicals. The study revealed that pollutants in attached garages can find their way into the house.
There are also secondary sources of pollutants in garages, apart from car-based emissions. There are many gas-powered appliances, such as lawn mowers, chain saws and edging tools whose emission systems are not as good as those found in cars. Chemicals such as pesticides and herbicides are also sources of pollutants.
One disconcerting fact is that garage-to-house air movement is not obvious or straightforward. In the 1990s, when the first inexpensive carbon monoxide (CO) sensors became commercially available, many started going off without an evident source of carbon monoxide. Responders such as utilities and fire departments often wrote off the incidents as false alarms, prompted by over-sensitive CO detectors. However, research in Minnesota (Wilber & Klossner, 1997) showed that the time delay of CO entry to the house from the garage could be a factor. When a cold car engine starts up in the garage, even with the main garage door open, it can generate up to several hundred parts per million of carbon monoxide gas in the garage. Once the car has left and the garage door is closed, the garage may still hold a relatively high CO concentration for hours. Air leaking from the garage to the house can cause the CO level in the house to start climbing. After several hours, the house CO level is high enough to set off the CO alarm, but by then the garage is low in CO and is not recognized as a source.
How Garage Air Gets Into Your House
It can be difficult to understand how and why garage air moves into the house. After all, there is at least one layer of drywall between the house and the garage, and a significant amount of insulation. The door from the attached garage to the house typically has weatherstripping and a spring to hold the door closed. So how does air enter?
Air can move through small cracks in the walls between the house and the garage, and through the top floor ceiling. There are many tiny holes and cracks that permit this air exchange to take place and they exist in all houses. It takes a sophisticated test with specialized tools, such as a blower door and leakage detection equipment, to find infiltration and exfiltration points.
Field tests by CMHC have discovered that the walls (and perhaps ceilings) between garages and the house can be as air leaky as the rest of the house. Some houses get most of their “fresh air” through the garage. One or two of those tested had so little leakage that there was no measurable air movement through the walls between house and garage. However, most garages have some air leaks, roughly in proportion to the size of the exterior wall.
But air movement into a house requires both a hole and a pressure difference. Does a pressure difference exist? Yes. CMHC measured the pressure difference across the house-garage wall and the house pressures are often lower than garage pressures, especially in winter. This is quite common in colder weather. Having exhaust fans or vented heating appliances also creates lower pressures inside the house, and garage air is drawn in through the leaks.
Preventing Garage-to-House Transfer in New Houses
The best way to prevent garage air entry into the house is to make sure that there are no leaks between the garage and the house. In new construction, this should be easy. The builder should make the interface walls and ceilings as airtight as possible. This is more readily done if the builder knows that reducing pollution transfer from the garage is a priority.
The builder should:
Ensure the airtightness of the garage ceiling and walls that are next to the house, before the insulation is installed and before installing drywall on the garage side.
Check all wall-to-wall junctions or wall-to-floor junctions and seal them. If the top of the basement wall is exposed in the garage, that header space can be notoriously leaky.
Diligently seal all penetrations from the house to the garage (wiring, central vacuum exhaust and so on).
Keep mechanical systems (furnaces, water heaters and so on) out of the garage. While most Canadian builders would not consider putting mechanical systems in the garage, it is common practice in parts of the U.S. The few Canadian houses that CMHC has tested (in B.C.) with heating systems located in the garage showed high levels of garage pollutants in house air.
Preventing Garage-to-House Pollution Transfer in Existing Houses
It is much harder to prevent air movement from a garage to a house in an existing house. In a house already built, there will be leakage areas but they are usually hidden. They are not easy to locate and not easy to seal.
However, air-sealing the garage-to-house walls and ceilings may still prove worthwhile. If the garage side has no drywall, sealing air leaks may be simple. If the drywall is simply screwed on the wall and is otherwise unfinished, removing the drywall gives access to the interior spaces. Finishing the drywall itself with drywall compound and paint, as well as caulking all visible cracks and joints, may improve airtightness.
Another approach involves installing an exhaust fan to vent garage air outside. A good bathroom fan could be used. By operating the fan, the garage becomes depressurized relative to the house thereby preventing air movement from the garage to the house. This will not impact to any great extent on house heating costs but there will be an electrical cost to run a fan.
The use of a garage exhaust fan may lower the garage pressure enough for airflow through the holes to go from the house to the garage, rather than the garage to the house. Check the pressure difference by opening the door to the house just a crack and feeling for air movement from the house to the garage. A smouldering string can also be used to detect air movement. If air is moving into the garage, the pressure is in the right direction. This will assure that garage pollutants do not enter house air.
To avoid high electrical costs, choose an exhaust fan with low energy consumption. To further reduce fan usage, have the fan activated for a period (for example, one hour) after the garage door is used.
Continuous use of the exhaust fan is recommended if:
There are a lot of noxious chemicals in the garage. Better yet, consider sending them to a hazardous waste disposal site.
The garage is used to store or maintain older vehicles with higher emissions.
There is a lot of coming to and going from the garage through the main garage door.
What to do
All buyers of new houses should confirm that their builder is aware of this issue and takes measures to do a good job of sealing air leakage paths. It is the only easy time to seal the air leakage points. An effective air sealing approach is far better than installing an exhaust fan after the fact.
Owners of existing houses have harder choices. If there is evident and annoying transfer of odours and drafts from the garage to the rooms next to the garage, the leaks should be located and sealed. If that task is too onerous or expensive, the garage exhaust fan solution could be considered.
Finally, if the attached garage is not used for vehicles (as is often true) and there are no other major chemical sources in that space, garage-to-house air movement should not be a significant problem.
Bibliography
Wilber, M.W., & Klossner, S.R. (1997).
A study of undiagnosed carbon monoxide complaints.
Proceedings of Healthy Buildings/IAQ ‘97, 3.
Related CMHC Information
Carbon Monoxide
Combustion Gases in Your Home — Things You Should Know About Combustion Spillage
How to Reduce Chemical Contaminants in Your Home
The Importance of Bathroom and Kitchen Fans
Breathe Healthier Air in Your Home: A Consumer Guide to Residential Indoor Air Quality Investigations
Garage Performance Testing
Clean Air Guide: How to Identify and Correct Indoor Air Problems in Your Home
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Thinking of hiring a contractor....
Contractors who accept money before work is complete and look for work, discuss or finalize a contract away from their normal place of business (ex. in your home) are considered prepaid contractors. A prepaid contractor must be licensed by Service Alberta and post security. If the business is negligent in performing its services or providing the goods, an affected consumer can submit a claim against the security.
Check with Service Alberta to find out if a contractor is licensed as a prepaid contractor. Call the Consumer Contact Centre toll free in Alberta at 1-877-427-4088.
If a prepaid contract is worth $200 or more, the Prepaid Contracting Business Licensing Regulation requires the contractor to give you a written contract.
Avoid contractors who:
Knock on your door to tell you they just happen to be doing some work in the area and can give you a special price
Promise a discount if you allow them to use your home to advertise their work
Quote a price without seeing the job
Refuse to give you a written contract outlining what they will do or who won't allow you to get other estimates
Provide a post office box as their address or an answering service for a telephone number
Will not commit to a specific start and completion date
Ask you to take out the appropriate permits or indicate that they are not taking out a permit at all. The person doing the work is the person required to take out a permit. Permits are for your protection and help ensure that work meets safety code standards to protect the safety and value of your home.
Check with Service Alberta to find out if a contractor is licensed as a prepaid contractor. Call the Consumer Contact Centre toll free in Alberta at 1-877-427-4088.
If a prepaid contract is worth $200 or more, the Prepaid Contracting Business Licensing Regulation requires the contractor to give you a written contract.
Avoid contractors who:
Knock on your door to tell you they just happen to be doing some work in the area and can give you a special price
Promise a discount if you allow them to use your home to advertise their work
Quote a price without seeing the job
Refuse to give you a written contract outlining what they will do or who won't allow you to get other estimates
Provide a post office box as their address or an answering service for a telephone number
Will not commit to a specific start and completion date
Ask you to take out the appropriate permits or indicate that they are not taking out a permit at all. The person doing the work is the person required to take out a permit. Permits are for your protection and help ensure that work meets safety code standards to protect the safety and value of your home.
Milk Containers
Effective June 1, 2009, all milk containers will become part of the deposit/refund system in the Beverage Container Recyclling Regulation. Milk containers will be treated like other deposit/refund items, ie, pop cans, bottles, etc.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Did you know...
The following is an excerpt from the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation:
Did you know…
That the average duration of the round trip between home and the workplace, by both public transport and car, is getting longer? In 1992, only 35% commuting trips by car took an hour or more. By 2005, this had increased to 45%. Likewise, for those commuting by bus, trips of an hour or more increased in proportion from 79% in 1992 to 88% in 2005.
Something to consider next time you are looking for a place to call home!
Did you know…
That the average duration of the round trip between home and the workplace, by both public transport and car, is getting longer? In 1992, only 35% commuting trips by car took an hour or more. By 2005, this had increased to 45%. Likewise, for those commuting by bus, trips of an hour or more increased in proportion from 79% in 1992 to 88% in 2005.
Something to consider next time you are looking for a place to call home!
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
2008 Year End Information
The Town of Vulcan recorded 14 residential sales in 2008 at an average price of $245,393.
16 farm sales were reported for the period within the Brooks Real Estate Board, which Vulcan County is apart of, and 7 commercial property sales were reported as well.
This real estate update is brought to you by the member firms of the Brooks Real Estate Board.
16 farm sales were reported for the period within the Brooks Real Estate Board, which Vulcan County is apart of, and 7 commercial property sales were reported as well.
This real estate update is brought to you by the member firms of the Brooks Real Estate Board.
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